JOHN APP DIARY
(1850)
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Introduction
John App traveled to California from Pekin, Illinois in 1850,
making the journey with a wagon train as thousands of pioneers did
during the days of the gold rush. Through the years his diary has been
remarkably preserved and is in the possession of Mrs. Pat (Heiskell)
Hillman, Tulare, California, a great-granddaughter of John. John App
(1821-1898) was the son of Mathias J. App (1796-1878) who was the
son of Matthias App (1761-1828). Born in Selinsgrove, Pennsylvania
John moved west to Pekin, Illinois with his family in 1833. He arrived
in California in the fall of 1850 and married Leanna Donner (of the
famed Donner Party and second oldest daughter of George Donner) in
1852 at Sutter's Fort, now Sacramento, California. He and his wife
moved to Quartz Mountain, California (near Jamestown, CA) where he
homesteaded and discovered a gold-bearing quartz mine on what is
known as the Mother-Lode. Called the App mine, it was one of the top
gold producers of the southern mines.
The diary measures 10 cm wide, 14.5 cm tall, 8 mm thick and has a
tan, leather covering with plain paper pages bound with string. John
wrote his diary in pencil although there are some notes made in ink
from a time prior to his departure west. It has become fragile with age,
but is still very much in readable condition with the leather cover still
retaining a soft feel.
The book itself does not appear designed to be a diary as such, but
rather a book filled with blank pages for general use. John used it
initially as journal to keep track of miscellaneous notes to himself such
as to whom he loaned money, and various expenses of his own. The
first pages of the book have been fashioned by John (on the right-hand
side of each page) into an alphabetically tabbed journal A through Z.
The full pages which followed were used to make various notes such as
medicinal remedies, expense reports, etc.
It appears as though he had this book with him on the trip west
and decided to use it as a daily record of the trip. He started the
journal midway through the book where blank pages began, and
continued writing to the end of the book skipping over pages where
there were already notes. When he reached the end of the book he
continued writing on the beginning pages (on the alphabetically tabbed
pages) where there was free space. Therefore, his story begins on diary
page 64, continues through page 94, continues on page 2, and ends on
page 43.
Although only his basic story has been transcribed here, the pages
of the book detail other fascinating information such as a list of
supplies to be taken west (complete with costs), a population analysis
of Pekin, IL for 1849, and a drawing of a man riding a mule. The
transcribed text contains an accurate replication of spelling and
grammar. Word spacing, punctuation, and small page markings were
impossible to accurately reproduce in the transcription. View the copy
of the original diary for handwriting and markings. A scanned image of
each diary page is available in computerized grayscale file format image
(IBM Compatible). In the transcription references to page numbers in
the original diary are shown inside [], and vertical writing in margins
are shown inside {}.
He ran out of writing space in this book, consequently the diary
ended before John reached California. It is not known if he continued
his journal in another book, or if he had nothing else along with him in
which to write. Part of the geat american gold rush, you will be able to
feel his emotion as he travels to "see the elephant" from his old home
in Pekin, Illinois to his new home in California.
Larry App Bristol, Indiana June 1995
JOHN APP DIARY (1850)
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[Page 64]
Left Pekin March 27/50 at about noon-rather
a gloomy time all day Reflecting about
matters and things at home, got along pritty
well, Stopped below Kingston about 2 miles
Looks Like rain very much this Evening
March 28 - we Camped for the first time 1
mile west of Canton, had Ham Bread &
water for supper and went Glorious fine for
we were most darned Hungry this day we
had rather a better time of it than Yesterday
{Commenced on a ham 17 lbs-}
[Page 65]
March the 29
Last Knight we slept on the ground was rather
an unpleasant Knight Cloudy Threatening rain
& cold, this morning, Opened very fine, the sun
Rose in its brightest Hugh and not a cloud was to the seen, the
birds seemed to rejoice singing and Chirping in Every direction a mor
Lovely morning I never beheld, Especially when, we were taking our
breakfast on the Trunk of an Old Oak, It would have been amusing to
you to have seen
[Page 66]
us taking our grub, It Consisted of Ham, Coffee & Bread a little
Better than Last Knight, this Evening we had Ham Eggs Bread &
Coffee done up Brown and went very fine, we had a very Fine day and
are now camped at Burnedott, Traveled First day Only 10 miles second
day 15 miles and To day 20-. Looks a little Like rain
March 30th
waked up this morning very Comfortable, Looked Like rain. Cloudy
and gloomy about 9 o'clock it Cleared
[Page 67]
up and sun shone bright as Ever, We Traveled about 35 miles to day,
and a fine time we had, Lots of fun, It is amusing to see the natives run
to the road to see the Elephant. Old men, women, Girls & Boys, when
they see us coming if it is a half mile off across their fields, they
shinet to the road helter skelter, little fellows falling down others
stumbling over them, Hurra boys the Elephant the Elephant they Cry,
this Evening we are camped in Modonaugh County about 5 miles west
of Mc Comb
[Page 68]
at a good Ol Pennsylvania Farm House, are going to stop till monday
morning, This Evening we had Ham, Eggs, Potatoes, Bread, and
Coffee- we now have a little stove Just weighs 11 1/2 lb with all the
cooking utensils, and it is very Comfortable, in our tent this evening
the stove makes it so warm that we have to open the tent and let out
the heat, so let it rain or shine and we are at home my hat full of wood
will cook our meals vituals, this Evening we have straw to sleep on and
now it is bed time Jake let us turn in
[Page 69]
Sunday Evenig March 31 st
this morning we waked up rather Late on account of having to good a
bed to sleep on. but as it is the sabboth day, men were not in a hurry,
we Cooked our Breakfast and then shaved washed, and cleaned up, all
things, to order this day has been rather a dull day, Being Easter, to,
Mr Stickels is the mans name that owns the Farm we are stoping on
now he very kindly invited, us to his house and take dinner with him,
we concluded that it would save our cooking at Home Therefore we
thanked him
[Page 70]
very kindly, and accepted the Invitation. Being Easter we had plenty of
Eggs and a first rate dinner, after which I sat down at the Reading table
and among the Books I found a Singing Book (Carmina Sacra) I
inquired if any of them sing, (as I thought it a good way to pass off
the day) some of them soon replyed they did, a little, soon all hands
got to singing, and Just as I had got in my most mellodious strains of
music, a little Boy came running into the door, and said that the Hogs
were rooting
[Page 71]
at our tent. Jake started first before he reached the Tent the Hoggs had
Eat all our provisions which was not much, half Loaf of Bread, 1 peck
of potatoes and Twelve or Fourteen lbs Ham, so all we had Left was a
Prarie Chicken that Jake shot Yesterday, so we did not make much by
dining with our good old methodist Friend, next me and my good Old
Friend started for methodist meeting of 1 1/4 mile walked, and Heard
a Real Old Fashioned sermon and did not see a ___ ___ ___ and then
footed it home (I call
[Page 72]
my Tent Home) now the next was our grub again. I called on the Old
Man for a few of the substantials, got a Ham & some Bread. this
Evening we had Coffee, Bread & our Prarie Chicken stewed, and went
fine now ready to go to Bed- Looks very much like rain
April 1st
waked up this morning and found it raining very fast and to my
astonishment found not a drop of water in the Tent, we slept as dry as
if we had been in the Best House, next I Examined the wagon and
found all in perfect order {Bought 14 1/2 lbs Ham}
[Page 73]
But the poor mules had to take it, next we got up a fire in our stove
and in a few minutes it was so warm that we had to throw open the
door, and let out the heat, we cooked our Breakfast and Eat it with as
much comfort as can be Imaginable, nothing to disturb us, only when
we went out, we passed off the day in reading writing _____ till noon
when it slacked raining then we harnessed our mules pulled up stakes
and left, But by the time we got ready to start it began to rain
[Page 74]
again very fast, I then called on the Old major for the first time, (My
Old Great Coat I mean when I say major) and mounted Fan (the
saddle mule) and away we went singing Old Langsyne, through the
rain, rained all after noon but the Old major kept me dry, we camped 5
miles East of Layharp, Travelled only 10 miles. Every thing is
comfortable now Jake is parching Coffee and I think the rain is over,
taking this day up one side and down on the other, it was rather wooley
I think.
[Page 75]
Tuesday April 2d
This morning we found It clear, fed our mules, got our Breakfast
Harnessed our mules pulled up stakes, and Left, supposing the rain to
over with, we got along fine till about 11 oclock then it Began to rain
again like Fury, I Immediately Called on the old major, (as I had him
on the top of the wagon drying out yesterdays rain) got him on my
Back, and I on the mule, and away we went, rained all afternoon, But as
we set our stakes this morning
[Page 76]
to be in Fort Madison Iowa, this Evening we pushed ahead and stoped
for nothing, and are now Camped in the City of Fort Madison. we had
not much Trouble in Crossing the Ferry, we come about 25 miles this
day, to day was much wors than Yesterday muddyer, and rained Faster,
pitched our Tent after dark and as soon as we got our Tent up then we
were at home again, all things are done up now, and ready to go to
roost, it has Just stoped raining
[Page 77]
wednesday Eveing April 3
waked up this morning and found it Cloudy and Threatning rain, as it
did rain pritty much all day, fed our mules got our Breakfast, and then
as soon as I got the Tent Clear of the crowd of men and Boys changed
my shirt, and concluded to visit doct Rhinehart and Family, I started
But Before I got to the House I met a messenger after she saying that
Mrs Rhineheart, said that we should come up to their House
Immediately, as I was on the road at the time it did not take me long to
get there; the first person
[Page 78]
I Saw was Mrs Rhineheart comeing out of the gate to meet me, well
Indeed now John, I did not think it was You. I was ushered into the
House immediately, Vally was at school, But Immediately sent for.
School, work, and every thing Els, was laid to one side, and we must
pull up stakes and come to their House right away, no Excuse would
answer, and the doctor went with me to the Tent and Helped us to pull
up stakes, and move to their House, We soon moved and are now
[Page 79]
in the doctors House, Have spent a very Pleasant day notwithstanding
it rained all day, Enjoyed myself very much felt Perfectly at Home had
all the attention paid us Imaginable, Ft. Madison is rather a flourishing
Place, and when we wer Encamped had a great many visitors, the doct
has a very Fine House and Lots, A Beautiful situation, he is not Liveing
in his new house as Yet but soon will, he has his lots filled full of all
Kind of trees, Roses, Shrubbery &, thinks he never will Leave this
[Page 80]
place, he is doing a very good Business, he has been Called upon, I
should Think 20 times since we have been here, and Mrs Rhineheart
says that it is always just so, when their is any sickness.
Thursday Evenig April 4th
waked up this moring found it Cloudy and raining. rained all day
pritty much we Expected to start this moring, But their was no getting
away until it stoped raining- Therefore we Concluded as we wer doing
so well, to stop one more day. this day went off rather Better than
Yesterday
[Page 81]
Clarissa favoured us with several good tunes on the piana, she plays
very well, is now taking lessons from an Eccellent Teacher, we chatted
and talked about Every thing that was going on in Pekin, so that we
Killed Time very fast, this Evening I amused the girls and the old Lady
By giveing them drawings of our first Encampment and our misfortune
the time the Hoggs ran off with our grub & I will also give You a few
of them if I have time. good night- -
[Page 82]
Friday Evening Apr 5
waked up rather Late this morig Looked out of the window and found
it Cloudy as before, But I was determined to start this day; for I began
to think if I did not start soon I would not get to St Joseph this
season, saying nothing about California Traveled about 20 miles this
day and camped in the Prarie, rain and sunshine all day, It was awful
muddy Hub deep at a great many places- the meanest road that I Ever
Travelled- If we had our full Load In
[Page 83]
we could not get along But as it is. we get along first rate, I cannot
forget Mrs Rhinehart. she seemed to take so much Interest In our
welfare, done Every thing to make us Comfortable, In short she was a
mother to us, She mad us a present of a Bottle of Horse Raddish (1/2
gall), done up fine, she thought we had not Bed Clothes Enough,
Therefore gave us a very heavy Comfort, and a good many other little
presents, in short could not do enough for us,
[Page 84]
Saturday Evening April 6th
this morning it was Clear the sun shone, and the roads dried up very
fast to day, this day was wors than Yesterday. it was mud all the time.
and often times draged the axle, mules in mud to their Hocks & Bellys
often times, ploughing and wallowing Through the mud, I dont think
It can be any wors from this on, we are now In Keosaequa Iowa,
Travelled 25 miles, took supper with one of Jakes old Friends, I Killed
2 P. Chickens this
[Page 85]
day, there is 25 or 30 Teams in this town waitig to cross the river des
moin they say that there has about 250 Teams Crossed at this ferry on
des moin River. grain and hay is very scarce, Oats 35 c Hay 25 to 50
ct per Hundred, we Have Been very Lucky as Yet always getting what
we want at reasonabl Prices, as I told you, when they get a dime out of
me, I get value for It certain and shure, take all that I can get Honestly
and Keep all that I have got. with all my saving it is very Expensive
Traveling
[Page 86]
Saboth Evening April 7th
Last night we slept in the wagon for the first time; Did not sleep so
comfortable as in the Tent; Previous to this, Took our grub with Jakes
old Friend, Mr Shepherd this morning. then made for the Ferry,
Crossed about 10 oclock Traveled about 3/4 mile then stoped and
piched our Tent, Fixed our mules, I then put some water on the stove,
and Commencd washing, I washed six shirts, 2 pr trawsers, 3 pr socks,
2 Hdkfs, 2 Towels, making 15 pieces and done it first rate, streched
our Cards, Hung
[Page 87]
out all our Clothes, and aired Every thing, greased our wagon, and now
Every thing is in order to start in the morning, all Clean and nice, I was
very Busy this day, in fixing up things, therefore passed off the day very
well, thought of Home several times But still not Homesick Yet, We
have Been rather Lonesome since we left haveing no Company as yet.
We Camped alone Every night since we left Home accept this Evening
this Evening we have some company
[Page 91]
Monday Evening April 8th
This morning it was Cloudy, felt very much Like rain, Cleared up, and
was fine, Traveled about 20 miles, had Lots of fun and Company all
day after we crossed the des moin. the road was Lined with Teams,
this is a very Hilly Country, up and down Hill all day, several wagons
Broke down to day, they are going in all ways and manners, some
taking it a foot others packing, I saw several Teams that had 4 Horses
and 5 and 6 men to But one wagon, Yesterday I saw
[Page 92]
a man and his wife and Brother going along with only 2 Horses and an
old wagon, from what I have seen already, I think there will be an
awfull Time on the plains this season, paid 40 cts per bus for Corn- 25
cts per cwt for Hay this day
Tuesday Eve Apr 9th
This moring it was Cloudy Cleared and was Fine all day till this
Evening, then it Clouded up and sprinkled a little, Now Clear again
this morning we Changed
[Page 93]
our mules to ther right places, put Liz the Little gray in the Lead for
the first time, and in the Course of one Hour she went first rate, this
morning we mired for the first time, this is an awful country for mud,
Hills, and slews, this Evening we have plenty of Company, Mr Adams
& Cla___ of Tazewell are Camping with us to night,
Wednesday Evening April 10th
this was a very Cold day till noon, then the sun shone and was rather
Pleasant
[Page 94]
Last night and night Before it froze very Hard, prospects for grass are
rather wooley, and corn is getting Higher they ask 75 cts per Bushel at
this place in Iowa. Travelled about 20 miles Yesterday about 20 miles
this evening there is about 25 wagons Camping with us- we have Just
had our supper, and I Eat so much that I can scarcely write, Jake and
myself can drink 1/2 gall Coffee, Eat 1 Loaf Baked Bread, 1/2 doz Eggs,
and 2 large slices of Ham at one meal
[Page 2]
Thursday Eve Apr 11-
This day we had Plenty of Company Roads pritty good, no Hay, for
our mules this Evening, Corn 75 cts per bush- froze Hard Last night-
Friday Eveing Apr 12
this was a very Cold and windy day, Travelled about 25 miles
Yesterday, this day about 30 miles nothing of Importance only I saw
several going Back to their Homes
[Page 3]
Saturday Evening Apr 13
this morning it was very Cold and windy, froze very Hard Last night,
This day we were alone all day, This Evening we had lots of fun 18 or
20 Teams in Camp among the Boys there was a Claronette and fiddle,
we had good music, danced, waltzed, and raised, old times in the
Camp- a little warmer this Evening- the grass is very slow comeing-
[Page 4]
Saboth Evening Apr 14th
This moring when I woke I found it snowing, snowed till noon, then
the sun shone very Bright all afternoon the snow was about 3 inch
deep But now nearly all gone this was a rather Lonesom day, this
Evening we spent in singing Spiritual Songs- there is two old deacons
in the camp
[Page 5]
Monday Evening Apr 15th
this morning the sun shone very Bright, and had a very Pleasant day,
there is about 20 wagons in camp this night, we had Lots of fun this
Evening, singing songs, and dancing on the Old shin Break style, under
the trees, Saturday we Traveled about 20 miles, this day about 25 miles
the roads were rather sloppy to day, I think the winter is now Broke It
is quite Pleasant this Evening-
[Page 6]
Tuesday Evening April 16th
waked up this morning and found it Cloudy, Cooked our grub,
Hooked up our mules and started, went about 2 miles and then
Commenced raining, rained all day and very Cold, this is the most
disagreeable day we have had since we left Home, Travelled about 10
miles to day
[Page 7]
and stoped a meeting House with stabling Enough for all our mules &
Horses, about 30 Head or more, we were very Lucky in getting to so
good a stopping place as this, Corn is selling at one dollar per Bushel
to some of the Boys, some of our Boys went 3 miles and paid one
dollar per Bushel for Corn and 50 cts per bag for oats in the sheaf, this
has Been a lively day since we got in the Church 4 stoves a going and
[Page 8]
Choping the old Benches into fire wood for the stove, The stables are
Better than the House- this Evening we Had a regular shin Brake in the
old Church- danced Cotillions, waltzed, and raised old Ned, we have a
Jolly Crowd. All strangers to me But first rate fellows,
Wednesday Evening Apr 17th
waked up this moring and had the Headache very Bad, it Lasted till this
Evening, It was Cloudy and Cold all day
[Page 9]
we Traveled about _0 miles this day, we paid one dollar for 1 Bushel of
Corn the most that we have paid previous to this was 50 cts per
Bushel, I am stoping this Evening with a farmer, as I was unwell I
thought I would recruit But I mised the mark all we had for supper
was side meat fried, a real old Fashioned dodger and some Coffee,
without sugar or milk, a hard
[Page 10]
Old place, the Old man is now stirng the Chunks while I am writing,
little does he Know what I am writing now or perhaps he would put
water on It, Jake is Camped about a 1/4 of a mile from this place, with
the rest of the Boys are helping him so that we have Friend where Ever
we go,
Thursday Eveg Apr 18th
waked up this moring Sound and Clear had a good Bed and felt fine,
paid my Bill which was Only 12 1/2 cts and Left for the
[Page 11]
Camp ground, the Boys were all very glad to see me Come, this day was
Cloudy and is now Threating rain. Jake Hurt his leg to day, By Letting
the wagon wheel run over it But nothing very serious he is a little
Lame this Evening Travelled about 20 miles and are now about __
miles from St Joseph, there is about 40 wagons
[Page 12]
in Camp this Evening Paid 50 cts per Bus for 4 Bush Corn this day I
Expect that will do us with what oats we have at St Joseph if it has
arrived
Friday Evening April 19
waked up this moring Found it Cloudy and Thundering I expect we
would have a great storm But soon cleared up, I shaved, shirted, pulled
[Page 13]
stakes and left for St Joseph, we are now Camped about one mile above
Town at a very good place I saw more Teams and Tents this day than
I Ever saw Before at one time, Every place is crowded, our provisions
and grain has not Yet arrived, and am afraid It will detain us, next
Thursday
[Page 14]
I Expect to start for the mountains if our grain Comes __ there is a
great rush in St Joseph at this time, gambling of all kinds and Every
thing that You Can Imagine, Old Jshabony and his tribe of Indians
passed our camp this Evening and are camped about one mile from
here, about 60 of them, the only Indians that I have saw on the rout all
pritty drunk- I shall Close this letter now and
[Page 15]
Before I leave I shall send You one more, I have not received the scratch
of a pen as Yet, the first thing I done was to go to the post office, to
see if there was any letters But none-
Left St Joseph April 24 Crossed the River and left, on the 25th in the
moring at 8 oclock Travelled about 20 miles
[Page 16]
we had the first stampede April 27 in the Evening when we were
putting out the guard ther was a tremedous snorting and fuss among
the mules and ___ all at once they Broke (they were staked out)
pulling up their stakes snorted and a general rush for the wagons, a
regular stampede, the fright was Caused by a wolf I suppose as ther was
tracks of that Kind seen next moring, it Caused great alarm
[Page 17]
in the Camp and I about think ther was 2 guns Loaded at the time But
since, Every gun is Loaded and in order, so that we were Learned a
good lesson and put on our guard, there is only 19 of us in Company-
Passed Ft Kerney monday on the 6th of May in good Health sent one
letter to Father
[Page 18]
roads and weather Fine, the grass very short, a heavy frost last night,
7th of Mar a very heavy frost passed 50 teams this moring 9th May
Rained last night for the first time, May 10 we passed 25 Teams-
very Pleasant this day,
May 11 Frost last night, the fist Buffalo I saw, Passed 11 Teams had 2
buffalo chases only 2 rains since we left St Joseph
[Page 19]
this afternoon the boys were out Hunting Buffaloe- shot at Several, did
not Kill any, shot 1 antelope, and the meat is good very much like
venison
Saboth, May the 12th.
this day I saw about 40 soux Indians in one Tribe and about 150 in the
other the only Indians I saw since we left ther mission 30 miles this
side of St Joseph- the darndest Beggars I Ever saw our mules were
[Page 20]
very much Frightened when we got in their town Turned short about
and made for the brush as if the old scratch was after them, did not
Break anything, I sold « gall of Brandy, for 1 good Buffaloe Robe and
one dollar in Cash, so I made the Robe Clear. we made the Indians
Presants of something to, Eat, Clothing for are use of the grass and
meat as they Claim all, I had the H _____ ____ ____ ____ the Great
the Indian Chief of the Souxs they number ninety Thousand
[Page 21]
in the Hole Tribe, they are scattered all along the road- But Friendly,
we have some fun
[Page 22]
with them sometimes, Yet ther is some of them that will steal, and if
they catch 2 or 3 from the road they will scalp them, for their, Guns &
Horses, I have only heard of 2 that were run about 6 mile in camp, the
2 men were out Hunting and Killed a Buffaloe, the Indians came across
them and Chased them from their meat and drove them in camp, they
dont like to have their Game
[Page 23]
killed off, we are now about 65 miles from Ft Larama, and about one
Thousand miles from Home, we left Ft Kerny on the 6th May about
noon and on Saturday about non we will be in Ft Larama, the reason
why I am now writing is, we Expect the Express along today or
Tomorrow
[Page 26]
Left Ft Larama May 19 in the afternoon went __ miles and camped, I
saw snow when I was at the Fort on the Larama peak a distance of 45
miles, Ft Larama is a rather pritty Place, situated on the Banks of
Larama River a nice Level valey with a Chain of Bluffs on Both sides,
their is only 3 Companies of soldirs here now, their is one Store, and
the way they sell goods is a Caution I stoped in and Bought a fish line,
such as costs about 4 cts, paid 30 for it, a Tooth Brush that cost about
6 c
[Page 27]
the price was 50 c and no Jewing, it is a one priced store, a Tin Bucket
that Cost 45 or 50 ct two and a half dollars, Every thing Els in
proportion, what uncle Sam has to sell is very Reasonable, Flour 11 1/2
cts per lb Crackers 14 ct ___, Buffaloe meat Fresh 6 cts per lb, Baked
Bread Fresh 11 1/2 cts per lb the Freight from the River is 9 cts p lb to
this place so they dont make much they aim to sell at Cost, so the
Commissary told me we got some Fresh Buffalo
[Page 28]
meat and Fresh Bread then. we had fine liveing for a few days, Game
has been very scarce so far, Liquor Beats ale for Prices, one of the
Peoria Boys sold 1 gall of Brandy pritty well watered for 12 dollars
whiskey is selling by the small at 1 dollar pr pint, Brandy at 2 dollars
pr pint, If I had to make this trip over again I would Know what to
bring and How to fix, Yet we are as well fixed or rather Better than any
on the road, If I had one Bbl of Brandy I Could
[Page 29]
make 500 dollars out of it Easy, Last Friday we passed the St Louis,
Pasenger Train they sold 2 of their spring Carriages at the Fort for 20
dollars, their Horses & mules are
[Page 30]
very Poor, and some of the Passengers wish they had died Before they
started, they left the Missourie River Before we did, they will have as
hard or rather harder time than last season, Because their is no Chance
for Recruiting, the Grass is so short, and the Emigration so great that
nearly Every space is swept Clean, and the last will have to take it, we
have grain Enough to take us over the Mountains I think the grass is
getting much Better
[Page 31]
Thursday May 23rd
The weather is fine nights Cool and in the middle of the day Just about
warm Enough to make a person sleepy and Lazy, if the weather and
roads continue as they are now we will have a pleasant Trip of It, so far
it has been very nice indeed, sometimes for a day or two the water
would be scarce and we would have to drink mud or go without, But
that
[Page 32]
is nothing, to what they had Last season Cold plenty of mud, and
sickness it is very Healthy this season, or at Least I have heard of But
one death, a Boy died with the measels, we are about one month ahead
of Last seasons Travail, I saw a Board Yesterday with a mans name on
it dated the 4th of July 1849, no wonder they had a warm time of It, I
have an Idea that we will have a Cool time of it the trip through, I can
see snow now
[Page 33]
May the 26th 1850
we were at the Rock Independence resting are mules as it was the
saboth day, The Rock Independence is a very Larg Rock with, perhaps
5 Thousand or more names on it. I took a Cold Chisel & Hatchet then
Engraved my name on the south side, as it is such a noted Place for
names to stand For Ever
[Page 34]
the Rock is about 6 Hundred Yards Long, 120 Yards wide, about 150
Feet High- Composed of Hard Granite with a very pritty stream of
rock this day I passed of In making dried apple Pies, Cooking Rice
Baking Bread etc, we had a Big diner on that day, ___ Fried Ham, Rice,
warm Bread, Pies, Coffee, Pickels, dried venison A very fine Fruit Cake,
(that Jakes mother Baked Before we left) toped off with some pickled
Onions, The greatest diner we had since we are on the road
May the 27th that night it snowed, and snowe all moring till 10
Oclock- so Cold that I wore my
[Page 35]
over Coat all day, passed the, devils Salt, a Larg mountain that Sweet
water River runs Through, the avenue or Chanel is Beautifull the
Rocks are is supposd 400 feet, Perpendicular on Each side of the
Chanel, their is a great many Curiositys on this Road
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Every day something new, the trip so far has paid first rate, and if it
Continues this way Through, It will be a pleashure trip to me Instead
of a toilsome and suffering time, the greatest Bulliphant I saw since I
left Pekin, was between Pekin & St Joseph, awful mean Roads, mud,
Rain, Hills, and sloughs all the way But since that time we have had a
good time of it, plenty to Eat and drink- some times it was a little
dusty and generally, Pritty Cold at nights, we have
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Plenty of Bed Clothes and a good tent therefore, we did not mind that,
It is amusing to see the Boys go, some are a foot, some Pack,
sometimes Men and 1 Horse, their is 2 men Packing with a Hand Cart,
working their way through in that style, one Fellow Before us, with a
wheelbarrow going it like Jehugh, these men that walk are Furnished at
the Forts. so it goes, some of the Emigr to, that start late will suffer
very mush, or the account of Provisions they most of men started
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with short allowances Expecting to be furnished at salt lake but as I
have understood it is very scarce at that place Flour costs 20 cts per
lb Every thing in proportion, May the 30 th we Passed the summit or
dividing Ridge of the Rocky Mountains had a very heavy frost that
night.
Crossed Sublets Cut off June 1st It was Cloudy and Cold, distance
48 miles (measured the same day) without water, it is called the great
desert, I dont Call it a desert, Because there is plenty of grass and
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a hard road all the way. Stoped at green River Saboth day June 2d
Saw a few Indians
made a Boat of a wagon Box and Ferried Hams River on the 4th of
June
Left Ft Hall Road and took Hudspeths Cut off the 8th of June 1850,
fine weather. camped Saboth June 9 20 miles on Cut off
Left Hudspeths Cut off June 13th, Rained, snowed, and Hailed on the
15, Between Raft Road marys river, very disagreeable- considerable of
the Bulliphant in that place
Saboth June 16th Traveled Camped in the Evening about
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45 miles from marys R very fine day, Traveled that week 175
17th snowed and very Cold
In the morning of the 18th of June it was so Cold that it froze Ice an
inch thick in the water Buckets,
Levi was taken sick June 19th Lay Sick 3 days on Humbolt or marys
Rivers,
June 23d the Saboth we Traveled Because we had been detained in
Crossing the headwaters of marys R, the first Introduction we had to
the Elephant was on Raft R, to see men
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hauling and draging their wagons and mules through the swamps and
sloughs about 1/2 mile going it with a long Rope in their shirt tails, I'm
about down getting Cold, and nothing to Eat since morning, we
Camped and in the moring looked around and found a good place to
cross the head without any trouble, so it goes. Men make them selves
sometimes trouble when their is no use in it, rush ahead without
looking where they go until they get in so
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deep that they cannot back out, and sometimes lose a day
(end of diary)
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